Luxebeaute's Blog

April 4, 2014

Artisan Fragrance Review: Therapeutate Parfums

Filed under: Cult Beaute: Artisan Product Reviews — luxebeaute @ 2:45 am

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I recently had the pleasure of reviewing a variety of scents sent to me by Rodney F. Hughes, Artisan Parfumeur extrordinarre and mastermind behind Brooklyn based Therapeutate Parfums.

These are incredibly sophisticated scents along the lines of Chanel #5 and Cartier Panthere (RIP, Le sigh…). They are also composed of interesting and lavish base notes which remind me of both the classic femininity utilized by Cartier or house of Guerlain and also contemporary niche scents from Tokyo Milk’s Dark line. Yet for all of my comparisons here, Therapeutate Parfums has definitely placed its own unique sassy spin on fragrant and heady spices. Basically Hughes has found a way to refine exotic and sophisticated scents, creating a unique and chic balance between the masculine and feminine. Think floral and Smokey infuses from Morocco then brought back to an underground jazz club to add notes of tobacco and leather and you almost have it…

I was sent a total of 5 creations all listed below. [Description taken straight from the website]

V5DKA ($224.00) V5 is based in Amber and Cistus (labdanum). Its historical accord is rounded out by E.I. Sandalwood and Vanilla. Black Currant (Cassis) gives V5 its dark and alluring quality. It is then refined with the florals of Champaca and Jasmine, Guaiacwood which lends headiness and color to the overall body of this fragrance.

OSIRIUS ($180.00) Osirius is a sweet juicy fragrance that has a spicy heart which dries down to smoky florals and woods. Its sillage is very long lasting. Notes: Rosewood, Rose, Rosemary, Palmarosa, Geranium, Mimosa, Cognac, Sandalwood, Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Guaiacwood, Cinnamon, Oakmoss, Violet, Galbanum, Pepper, Tuberose & Cypress. 

 2010 NYC SERIES: L’AUTOMNE ($180.00) Japanese citrus, very herbal with floral hints weaving through in varing degrees depending on the season represented. L’automne is more smoky with Amber and it very warm to the nose. L’hiver is cooling down effect with warm sparkling, powdery untones peeking through it citrus head.

Bespoke #3 ($210.00) A bold and alluring body that is essentially “amber” with compliments of rock rose. The middle is sweet marjoram, cardamom and coriander lends to a heart of green. Sandalwood (bois de santal) grounds and holds this blend together as well as add a sharp, rich jolt of energy.

 775EX ($170.00) This classic fragrance is naturally oriental. Mardarin, Jasmine, Vanilla, Amber and Spikenard. It is golden in tone with a very heady citrus on top that dries down to a powdery star dust finish.

My Opinion

These are wonderfully crafted scents, chock full of exotic botanicals and are of an obvious high quality. There is absolutely no trace of alcohol to these at all. However, they do all bare a powdery finish end note to them, which takes a minute for me to get used to and never really fully dissipates. These are really animalistic and fiery, definitely evening scents. There is a very masculine quality to these which in my opinion makes them quite appealing as a unisex cult type yet classic product.

Out of all the scents above in which I tried, I must admit, I never really got any strong floral notes out of these. I got plenty of powder, grass and moss, incense, Amber, wood, and pepper but no sweetness at all. I was really hoping for a balance of light and heavy along the lines of Givenchy for my own personal use; however don’t take that as a negative! I just happen to personally be a Coco Mademoiselle gal as opposed to a Channel #5 one. I could definitely imagine Catherine Deneuve or a modern day Bardot in a cloud of Therapeutate Parfums.

Although they are not exactly something I would personally gravitate toward, I can see how many others would. These are powerful and complex with a really unique mysterious finish to them which lingers nicely. If you happen to be a fan of CC#5 or 22, Cartier Must, YSL Opium, Mariella Burani, Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, or Shalimar than I highly suggest you check out Therapeutate Parfums.

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